Quick Answer
1920 style homes aren’t one single look. They’re a mix of bungalows and revival styles that became popular during a major homebuilding boom. They offer real character, but a smart renovation has to protect the details people love while updating old electrical, insulation, layout, and structural systems for modern living.
If you own a 1920 style home, or you’re thinking about buying one, you’re probably pulled in two directions. You love the original woodwork, windows, floor plan, and curb appeal, but you also know an older house can hide expensive problems behind plaster and trim.
That tension is normal. The right approach is to understand what kind of house you have, which original features are worth preserving, and where modern upgrades are the sensible move, especially on the Central Coast where permitting, seismic concerns, and older infrastructure all shape the job.
Understanding 1920s Home Architecture
You walk into a 1920s house on the Central Coast and the charm is obvious in five minutes. The renovation priorities usually show up just as fast. A tidy bungalow, a Tudor cottage, and a Colonial Revival may all get labeled “1920 style homes,” but they were built with different proportions, roof forms, and structural habits. Those differences affect what you can change, what will cost more, and what the city or county is likely to question during plan review.
The 1920s building boom produced a huge range of houses, from compact working-family bungalows to more formal revival homes. Many were modest in size, often around 1,500 square feet or less (BuildShow Network). That smaller footprint is a big reason these homes get remodeled today. Families want larger kitchens, another bathroom, better circulation, and space for aging parents, guests, or rental income.
Craftsman and bungalow homes
Craftsman bungalows were practical houses from the start. They were efficient to build, usually simple to frame, and often easier to update than more decorative revival styles. On remodels, that simplicity can help, but it does not mean every wall is fair game.
From the street, the signs are usually clear:
- Low-pitched rooflines with wide eaves
- Front porches with thick columns
- Exposed rafter tails or simple trim details
- One-story or story-and-a-half massing
- Natural-looking materials or earthy finishes
Inside, these homes often rely on straightforward bearing walls and short spans. That can make kitchen rework more realistic than in a chopped-up Tudor, but homeowners still need to confirm structure before opening rooms up. If you are planning to remove a divider, start with what a load-bearing wall is and why it matters.
A bungalow keeps its value best when the porch, roof shape, and window pattern stay in proportion. I usually tell homeowners to protect those exterior lines first. Cabinets, finishes, and even a major interior rework can change. Once the front elevation loses its rhythm, the house rarely gets it back.
Tudor Revival homes
Tudor Revival houses were built to look more vertical, textured, and decorative. They carry more visual weight on the exterior, which means bad remodeling decisions show up fast.
Common features include:
| Feature | What you’ll usually see |
|---|---|
| Roof | Steep gables |
| Exterior | Brick, stucco, or a mix with half-timbering |
| Windows | Tall, narrow windows |
| Chimney | Prominent chimney as a visual anchor |
These homes are less forgiving during renovation. Window replacements need the right size and depth. Masonry details matter. Even a small roofline change can make an addition look tacked on. On Monterey Bay projects, Tudor homes also take more design discipline if you want to add square footage without creating a permit fight over massing, setbacks, or neighborhood compatibility.
Colonial Revival homes
Colonial Revival houses are more formal. The front door is usually centered, the windows line up deliberately, and the whole facade depends on balance.
That symmetry gives you a cleaner framework for remodeling, and in many cases it makes additions easier to design than on Tudor or Spanish-influenced homes. It also creates a clear rule. Keep the front elevation orderly. Shift window spacing, alter the entry carelessly, or bolt on a front-facing addition, and the house starts to feel wrong even if the workmanship is good.
For owners thinking about an ADU, attached addition, or garage conversion, style matters less than where the new volume goes and how it meets the old house. That is the builder’s view of 1920s architecture. The style is not just history. It sets the limits and opportunities for every modern upgrade that follows.
Common Materials and Signature Interior Features
What people love about 1920 style homes usually isn’t just the exterior. It’s the interior texture. These houses tend to have plaster walls, older-growth wood flooring, solid doors, built-ins, and hardware that feels different in the hand than what you find in newer construction.
The 1920s also brought changing tastes. Art Deco arrived in the middle of the decade, introducing modern materials such as plastic and glass in bold colors, while many exteriors still used red brick, pebbledash, half-timbering, and red clay tile roofs (House and Hammer).
The details worth noticing before you remodel
When I walk a house from this era, I’m looking for the parts that give it its backbone and personality:
- Plaster walls and ceilings that have a denser, quieter feel than drywall
- Hardwood floors that can often be repaired instead of replaced
- Built-in cabinets and buffets that make dining rooms and breakfast areas feel anchored
- Original doors and hardware such as glass knobs, brass sets, and old latch details
- Transom windows over doors that help move light and air through tight plans
These aren’t just decorative pieces. They affect how a remodel should be planned. If you save the right items, the finished space still feels like the same house.
Original built-ins usually add more character than any new cabinet package you can buy off the shelf.
The hidden side of original materials
Old materials can also bring old problems. 1920s homes often have outdated knob-and-tube wiring and may have only one electrical outlet per room, which creates a real issue under modern electrical demand. Full rewiring for a 1,500 square foot home can range from $8,000 to $20,000 (How To Look At A House).
That’s why cosmetic planning can’t lead the whole job. You may want a new kitchen finish palette, but the smarter first question is whether the walls behind it need electrical, insulation, or framing work before the cabinets go in.
If you’re weighing old-house updates with a sustainability angle, this guide to green construction materials is useful. Roof shape matters too when comparing period homes, and this overview of Gambrel roof style homes gives a good contrast to the lower, broader rooflines common in many 1920s bungalows and revival houses.
The Big Decision Preserving History vs Modernizing for Today
Most homeowners don’t need a museum. They need a house that works. The hard part is deciding where authenticity still serves daily life and where it gets in the way.
A good 1920s remodel doesn’t freeze the house in time. It keeps the features that carry the home’s character and updates the parts that make living there harder than it needs to be.
Kitchens need to work harder than they did in 1928
Original kitchens in 1920 style homes were built for a different way of living. Storage was leaner, appliances were smaller, and the room was often separated from the rest of the house.
That doesn’t mean every kitchen wall should come out. In many older homes, a partial opening works better than a full open-concept gut. You can improve sightlines, add function, and keep enough wall surface for cabinets, windows, and the original room rhythm.
Consider this when planning:
- Keep cabinet proportions appropriate to the house. Oversized slab fronts can feel out of place fast.
- Respect original window placement whenever possible, because those elevations usually define the room.
- Use new materials with restraint so the kitchen feels updated but not disconnected from the rest of the house.
Bathrooms and closets need practical compromises
Bathrooms are where old homes show their age quickest. Fixtures may be outdated, layouts can be awkward, and storage is often almost nonexistent.
The right move is usually selective change, not wholesale demolition. Save original trim where possible, reuse doors when it makes sense, and improve function with better lighting, a smarter vanity layout, and more usable storage. The same goes for closets. Families today expect more capacity than 1920s builders planned for.
A remodel usually goes sideways when the new work ignores the scale of the old house. Match the proportions first. The finishes can follow.
Additions and ADUs should look intentional
If the house is too small, the answer may be an addition or detached ADU rather than trying to force everything into the original footprint. The best projects don’t mimic every old detail perfectly, but they do respect the original rooflines, window rhythm, siding profile, and overall massing.
That same mindset applies inside. Floor repairs are a good example. If you’re restoring original wood instead of replacing it, this article on modernizing your vintage hardwood floors is a practical resource for understanding what can be saved and what should be refinished differently today.
Key Renovation Challenges in 1920 Style Homes
A 1920s house can tour well and still carry expensive problems behind the plaster. I see this often on the Central Coast. A buyer falls for the coved ceilings, original windows, and old-growth framing, then the first demolition phase reveals unsafe wiring, tired pipes, and a foundation that was never upgraded for current seismic expectations.
Electrical systems are often the first serious upgrade
Electrical work usually sets the tone for the rest of the remodel. Many 1920s homes were wired for lamps, a few small appliances, and a much lighter daily load than a modern kitchen, heat pump, EV charger, or ADU setup requires.
Common problems include knob-and-tube wiring, sparse outlet placement, undersized service panels, and little or no grounding. Those issues affect safety, insurance, and scope. Once walls are open, leaving outdated wiring in place rarely makes financial sense because the labor savings disappear if you have to reopen finished areas later.
Insulation and air sealing affect comfort more than people expect
A lot of these houses are uncomfortable for reasons owners cannot quite pinpoint. One room stays cold, another overheats, and the floors feel drafty even after new windows go in.
The weak point is often the full building shell, not one product. Walls may be empty, attics may be underinsulated, and old penetrations around plumbing, chimneys, and electrical runs can leak air constantly. The challenge is improving comfort without wrecking plaster, trim, or exterior detailing that gives the house its character. This guide on insulating an older home is helpful before deciding how aggressive to get in walls, floors, and attic spaces.
Structural work takes planning, not guesswork
On Monterey Bay projects, the structure deserves a hard look early. Foundations from this period range from serviceable to badly patched, and floor framing often tells the story of every remodel that came after. A wall that looks nonstructural may already be carrying more load than expected because someone altered the house forty years ago without much engineering behind it.
The practical review usually includes a few items:
- Foundation condition for cracks, settlement, drainage problems, and signs of past movement
- Floor and wall framing before removing walls, widening openings, or tying in an addition
- Seismic connections and bracing where older construction does not match current code expectations
- Plumbing lines because galvanized supply and cast-iron drains often show their age once demolition starts
- Permit triggers since a kitchen remodel, addition, ADU, or garage conversion can pull older deficiencies into the current review
That last point matters in the Monterey Bay Area. Santa Cruz, Monterey, Capitola, Pacific Grove, and county jurisdictions can interpret the same scope a little differently, especially on coastal lots, historic areas, hillside sites, and properties adding an ADU. Good planning at the start saves money because it reduces redesign, permit corrections, and stop-work surprises.
A disciplined construction quality control checklist helps keep old-house work on track. There are more hidden conditions, more tie-ins to existing systems, and less room for sloppy sequencing than on a new build.
Do not build your budget around finishes alone. On a 1920s house, the systems behind the walls usually decide the project's true scope.
Adding Space ADUs and Additions for 1920s Homes
A lot of people love their 1920s house but don’t love the square footage. That’s common. These homes were often built compact, and the way families use space now is different from what those original plans allowed.
When an addition makes sense
An addition is usually the better answer when the main house has a workable layout but needs one or two major pieces added, such as a larger kitchen, a primary suite, or a family room. The key is making the new volume feel related to the original house.
That usually comes down to a few design choices:
| Design issue | What usually works |
|---|---|
| Roof shape | Match or closely echo the original pitch and form |
| Window pattern | Keep proportions and spacing consistent |
| Exterior finish | Use compatible siding, stucco, brick, or trim profiles |
| Interior transition | Make old and new connect cleanly without awkward level changes |
When an ADU is the smarter move
A detached ADU can be the cleaner solution when you want extra living space without tearing extensively into the main house. It can work well for family housing, guests, rental use, or downsizing on your own property later.
For 1920 style homes, the ADU shouldn’t look like it landed from a different neighborhood. It can be simpler than the main house, but it should still relate to it in scale, materials, and roof form. If you’re comparing options, this guide on smart moves for building an ADU in Monterey or Santa Cruz is a strong place to start.
Navigating Costs and Permits on the Central Coast
With 1920 style homes, budget planning is never just about finishes and labor. The age of the house affects design time, demolition strategy, inspections, and the chances that hidden work shows up once the project starts.
Permits also vary by location. A project in Salinas won’t always move through review exactly the way it would in Santa Cruz, San Benito County, or Santa Clara County. The scope matters too. A kitchen remodel, bathroom remodel, addition, ADU, garage conversion, or tenant improvement all trigger different layers of review.
What usually drives the budget
A few things tend to push old-house costs up or down:
- How much of the structure gets opened
- Whether electrical or plumbing upgrades are triggered
- Condition of framing, foundation, and subfloor
- Level of finish and custom trim matching
- Access to the site and staging room around the house
Why permitting needs to be part of the plan early
Older homes don’t give you much room for improvised decisions. If plans are vague, field changes become expensive fast.
That’s especially true for additions and ADUs, where setbacks, utility tie-ins, and review comments can shape the entire schedule. If you’re trying to understand local permit planning better, this article on ADU permit costs in Monterey County helps frame the issues that affect the process.
Frequently Asked Questions About Renovating 1920 Style Homes
Are 1920 style homes usually worth renovating?
Often, yes. If the house has solid structure, intact character features, and a layout that can be improved without fighting the whole building, renovation can make a lot of sense. The key is finding out early whether the nature of the work is cosmetic, system-related, or structural.
Can I open up the floor plan in a 1920s house?
Sometimes, but not every wall should come out. These homes were designed with defined rooms, and some walls are doing important structural work. A partial opening often gives better results than flattening the whole interior.
What’s the first thing I should inspect before buying one?
Start with structure, electrical, foundation condition, roof, and moisture history. Cosmetic flaws are usually easier to solve than hidden system problems. A pretty house with old wiring and movement in the floor can become a very different project once work begins.
Do I need to keep everything original?
No. Keep the features that give the house its identity and still serve the way you live. Update the parts that affect safety, function, comfort, and code compliance.
Is it better to build an addition or a detached ADU?
That depends on the lot, the existing layout, and how you want to use the space. An addition keeps everything connected. A detached ADU can preserve the original house more cleanly and add flexibility for family or rental use.
Will permits be harder because the home is old?
They can be more involved, especially if the work opens major portions of the house or changes structure and systems. Older homes often bring more review questions because existing conditions are less predictable. Good planning upfront saves time later.
Plan Your 1920s Home Project with Confidence
Renovating 1920 style homes is rewarding when the work is honest about the house you have. The best results come from balancing character, safety, comfort, and long-term value without forcing the home to be something it was never built to be.
If you’re planning work on a 1920s home in Salinas, Monterey County, Santa Cruz County, San Benito County, or Santa Clara County, Aldridge Construction can help you think it through. Brian Aldridge and his team handle home renovations, kitchen and bathroom remodeling, additions, ADUs, garage conversions, project management, and permitting assistance. Call (831) 682-9788, visit 1109 Aspen Pl., Salinas, CA 93901, or go to aldridgeconstruction.biz to schedule a conversation or request a free estimate.
Sources
These references informed the style, feature, and renovation background used in this article. To avoid duplicate citations, sources already cited earlier in the article are not repeated here.
Apartment Therapy. "1920s House Styles." 2025. https://www.apartmenttherapy.com/1920s-house-styles-36708588
House and Hammer. "6 Reasons I Love 1920s Houses." 2025. https://www.houseandhammer.com/6-reasons-i-love-1920s-houses/